If you’ve ever shopped for curly hair care products online, you’ve probably come across terms such as 3B curls or 4C hair and wondered what they meant. The curl typing system was popularized in the late nineties by Andre Walker, who developed a classification system based on the tightness of curl pattern and the type of frizz present in the hair.
In this article, I’ll explain what the curl classification system is and how it can help you choose the hair care products that will work best with your hair.
The Curly Hair Classification System
The hair typing system classifies hair into four basic hair types, based on the appearance of the curl pattern and the amount of frizz present. Each hair type is further subdivided into three categories based on how tightly the hair is curled.
- Hair type 1: Straight hair
- Hair type 2: Wavy hair
- Hair type 3: Curly hair
- Hair type 4: Coily hair
Each hair-type category is then divided into three subcategories (A, B, and C) based on the tightness of the curl pattern. A1 is the most loosely curled curl type, while C1 is the tightest curl pattern within the straight hair category. The same applies to other curl types, with the exception that not all hair types exhibit all three levels of curl tightness.
It’s completely normal to have more than one type of curl on your head most people have a combination of different curl patterns on different parts of their head.
Hair Porosity
It’s important to understand that hair porosity plays an important role in determining how your hair will respond to various hair care treatments. Porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. There are three basic levels of hair porosity:
- Low porosity: The cuticle is tightly closed, preventing excess moisture from penetrating the hair shaft, but moisture is retained for long periods of time after application.
- Medium porosity: This refers to a healthy cuticle that allows an optimal balance of moisture to penetrate the hair shaft and be retained.
- High porosity: This refers to a cuticle with gaps, allowing excessive amounts of moisture to penetrate the hair shaft, but not retained for long periods of time.
Most people classify their hair porosity based on how long a strand of their hair takes to sink when placed into a glass of water. To check your hair porosity, simply take a clean strand of hair (with no product on it) and place it in a glass of water. If it takes 4-5 minutes before your hair sinks completely underneath the surface of the water, you have low porosity hair. If it sinks slowly, you have medium porosity hair, and if it sinks faster, you have high hair porosity.
Hair Type 1 – Straight Hair
Straight hair is generally the easiest hair type to manage, since it rarely exhibits frizz and requires minimum maintenance. Straight hair is further divided into three subcategories based on how coarse or fine your hair is:
- 1A: Fine hair
- 1B: Medium hair
- 1C: Thick and coarse hair
While type 1 hair rarely presents problems, it’s important to note that straight hair is generally low porosity. This means that you should avoid using heavy products that can weigh your hair down. Another important consideration when it comes to straight hair is that it generally requires less moisture since it doesn’t require as much styling as curly and coily hair.
Hair Type 2 Wavy Hair
Wavy hair has a distinct S-shaped pattern, and also falls under three subcategories based on the tightness of the wave pattern:
- 2A: The most loosely waved pattern
- 2B: Moderate wave pattern
- 2C: Tight wave pattern with more defined curls
Wavy hair generally requires the least amount of maintenance and styling among curly and coily hair types. The most important thing to consider when it comes to wavy hair is that you should use light moisturizing products since heavier creams and oils can penetrate the hair shaft and weigh your hair down. Another important consideration is that products should be applied by scrunching, not by brushing, while your hair is still damp.
Hair Type 3 Curly Hair
Curly hair has a distinctive spiral pattern, and is characterized by three sub-patterns that are differentiated by the degree of curl tightness:
- 3A: Large curl pattern (the curl pattern on straight hair, but with visible curls) approximately the width of a sidewalk chalk
- 3B: Moderate curl pattern approximately the width of a marker pen
- 3C: Tight curl pattern approximately the width of a pencil or drinking straw
One of the most important things to consider when it comes to caring for curly hair is the use of the “LOC” or “LCO” method, where you apply leave-in conditioner, oil, and a cream or gel in this exact order, in order to lock in moisture.
When it comes to detangling, it’s best to use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb on soaked conditioned hair. If you wish to use a towel to remove excess moisture, make sure it’s a microfiber or cotton t-shirt, not a regular towel. This is because a regular towel can cause frizz as it dries.
Hair Type 4 Coily Hair
Coily hair has the tightest curl pattern among all hair types, and is further divided into three subcategories based on the tightness of the curl pattern:
- 4A: Dense, defined curls. Approximately the width of a crochet hook
- 4B: Less defined curl pattern with Z-shaped pattern instead of an S-shaped pattern.
- 4C: The tightest curl pattern with a zigzag contour.
Coily hair requires the most maintenance and care. As a rule of thumb, the higher your curl pattern is (3C, 4B, 4C), the higher your porosity is likely to be. This means that you may need to use heavier moisturizing products, such as creams or butters, in order to achieve the desired degree of hydration.
Another important consideration when it comes to caring for coily hair is that it requires protective styling in order to prevent breakage. This could mean braids and twists, but can also be styles that leave the curl pattern intact, such as buns and other braided patterns. The most important rule when it comes to caring for coily hair is to minimize the amount of damage to the hair caused by combing and detangling.
How To Determine Your Curl Type
- Use clean hair that has had no products applied to it for at least 48 hours
- Do not comb your hair, do not apply products, simply allow your hair to air-dry
- Check your curl pattern in a single strand of hair, rather than looking at your whole head of hair. Remember to look for different curl patterns. Most people have more than one curl type.
How To Know If You Have the Wrong Curl Type
It’s important to remember that there’s a difference between natural hair type and the curl pattern of processed hair. Many people who curl their hair regularly find that their curl pattern is permanently changed, which can make it harder to identify your natural curl type. Another common issue is that people tend to underestimate the amount of product needed for a certain curl type, especially when it comes to coily hair.
The Curl Type Care Guide
- Wavy hair type 2: Best hair products for wavy hair are generally lighter creams and conditioners since thicker products will weigh your hair down.
- Curly hair type 3: Curly hair requires more moisturizing products, such as leave-in conditioners, but a light hold gel or mousse should be sufficient for everyday styling.
- Coily hair type 4: Coily hair requires the most maintenance and care out of all hair types. This includes weekly deep conditioning treatments, as well as heavier creams and butters to add moisture to hair that naturally has a lower ability to retain moisture.
The Best Leave-In Conditioners For All Hair Types
- Light leave-in conditioners for hair type 1-2A: Look for leave-in conditioners that come in a spray or in a liquid form.
- Curl creams for hair type 2B-3A: Look for curl creams or lighter gels that won’t weigh your hair down. You should also consider using sea salt sprays, as they add volume and texture to your curls.
- Leave-in conditioners for hair type 3B-3C: Look for heavier leave-in conditioners with moisturizing ingredients, as well as gel with a medium to strong hold.
- Moisturizing creams and butters for hair type 4A-4B: If you have hair type 4, deep conditioning treatments are essential. You should also look for heavier creams and butters with moisturizing properties for extra hydration.
- Moisturizing leave-in products for hair type 4C: For hair type 4C, you’ll need the most intensive level of care. Look for leave-in products with moisturizing properties and weekly protein treatments for extra strength.
The Truth About Hair Follicles And Natural Hair Type
The natural curl pattern of your hair depends on the shape of your hair follicles, which dictates the natural curl pattern of your hair. Round follicles produce straight hair, oval and uneven follicles produce curly or coily hair, with more oval or uneven follicles producing tighter curls.
Common Mistakes By Hair Type
Wavy Hair
- Using heavy products on fine or medium hair
- Brushing curly or coily hair when it’s dry
- Over-processing fine hair
- Assuming that all curl patterns behave the same way and require the same type of product
- Neglecting to deep condition coarse dry hair
Coarse Dry Hair
- Neglecting to deeply condition coarse dry hair
- Assuming that all curl patterns behave the same way and require the same type of product
- Not using the right amount of products
- Not taking proper care to avoid tangles
Curly Hair
- Brushing curly hair when it’s dry
- Using the wrong type of hair products, such as heavy creams and oils
- Neglecting to detangle curly hair
- Not using the right amount of styling products
Fine Hair
- Using the wrong hair products
- Using too much product
Medium Hair
- Using the wrong hair products
- Using too much product
- Using the wrong amount of hair styling products
Frequently Asked Questions
Can my hair change curl type?
Yes, hormonal changes can have a permanent effect on curl pattern. Other common reasons why curl pattern may change include pregnancy, medication, and hair damage.
Can I have more than one curl type?
Yes, in fact, it’s completely normal to have more than one curl type.
Does curl type dictate what hair products I should buy?
Hair porosity and density are just as important factors that dictate what hair products are suitable for your hair.
Why does my hair look different when it’s wet than when it’s dry?
This is called shrinkage, and it’s especially common among people with hair type 4.
What’s the difference between curly hair and coily hair?
Curly hair has a distinct spiral pattern, while coily hair has a more zigzag pattern.
How do I check my hair porosity?
The most common way to check your hair porosity is to do the float test — simply take a clean strand of hair and place it in a glass of water. If it takes 4-5 minutes to sink, you have low-porosity hair. If it takes longer to sink, you have medium-porosity hair. If it sinks immediately, you have high-porosity hair.
Should I brush curly or coily hair when it’s dry?
No, brushing or combing curly or coily hair when it’s dry disrupts the curl pattern and causes excessive frizz.
Is 3C curly or coily hair?
Hair type 3C is the tightest curl pattern within the curly hair category, but generally behaves more similar to type 4A, due to the increased need for moisture.
What are the most common changes made to hair with the change of seasons?
Humidity has a major effect on curl pattern, with higher levels of humidity causing curl pattern to loosen up. This means that many curly-haired people tend to use heavier creams and gels in the summer and lighter products in the winter, in order to maintain desirable curl pattern.
